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What
are the advantages of SIPs?
SIPS can be installed in much less
time than a site built stud frame. This reduces site labor costs, pilferage,
carrying costs and exposure to the weather.
SIPS offer superior strength and
security. A home enclosed in foam core panels is strengthened and protected
by two layers of Structural Board - one on the outside panel face and
one on the inside. The inside layer of OSB also provides a sturdy nailing
surface, enabling you to hang shelves, cabinets and pictures without
having to search for a stud.
SIPS provide superior insulating
qualities. The foam core of the panel provides a much higher R-value
in less space than fiberglass or cellulose insulations and maintains
this performance indefinitely. SIPS have a THERMAL PERFORMANCE
WARRANTY which guarantees the insulating performance of the panel.
SIPS inherently have significantly
less air infiltration. The solid foam core and general absence of studs
provide an almost foolproof method of creating a tight building envelope.
The built-in wiring chases also eliminate air infiltration at this common
leakage point.
SIPS provide structure, sheathing
and insulation in one component. This reduces the number of subcontractors
required, supervision costs, and administrative overhead.
SIPS are kinder to the environment.
SIPS use engineered wood materials for most requirements and
use less dimensional lumber as a whole. This significantly reduces the
need for old growth timber. The panel's foam core is recyclable, thus
reducing the need for raw material and reducing the amount of material
reaching our landfills. Construction material waste is a major component
in landfill volume.
Can you adapt SIPs to an existing
plan?
Yes, Floor plans are probably the most flexible
element is SIP design. SIPs used in the roof system can provide full volumetric
usage of interior space, thus offering the opportunity to create exciting
cathedral ceilings and use otherwise lost space for lofts and heated storage
space.
What type of foam insulation do we use?
Our standard panels have a core of Modified Expanded
Polystyrene (MEPS). MEPS provides higher R-values per dollar than other
types of foam and does not contain chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs), which are
believed to damage the Earth's ozone layer. The R-value of MEPS
panel cores are extremely stable. In field testing over a number of decades
MEPS has been shown to retain virtually all of its original thermal and
physical properties. In fact, foam has a unique Thermal Warranty.
Another advantage is the fact that the insulative value of MEPS actually
increases as the temperature drops. The opposite occurs with fibrous insulations.
What is the difference between Exterior and Exposure 1 rated sheathings?
Exterior rated sheathings have a fully waterproof bond and are designed
for applications subject to exposure to the weather or to moisture for
its entire service life. Exposure 1 rated sheathings, either OSB or
Plywood, have a fully waterproof bond and are designed for applications
where construction delays may be expected prior to providing protection.
Exposure 1 rated sheathings are made with the same exterior adhesives
used in Exterior rated sheathings. However, because other compositional
factors may affect bond performance, only Exterior rated sheathings
should be used for permanent exposure to the weather. SIPs are
not to be used in applications where they will be used for permanent
exposure to the weather. A rain screen must be used in conjunction with
all siding materials. An acceptable rain screen is any non-perforated
housewrap installed per the manufacturer's recommendations or 15# or 30#
asphalt impregnated building felt installed shingle style with a
minimum 4" lap.
Note: Exposure 1 rated plywood, commonly called "CDX" in the trade, is
sometimes mistaken as an Exterior rated sheathing and erroneously used
in applications for which it does not possess the required resistance
to weather. "CDX" should only be used for applications as outlined under
Exposure 1 above.
Do the panels insulate better than stud walls filled with fiberglass batts?
Yes. When evaluating the insulating performance of a wall system, several factors should be considered. Most common among
these is "R-value." R-value is the measurement of the ability
of different materials to resist conductive heat transfer (movement of heat
through solid material). The higher the R-value of an insulating material,
the better it is able to resist heat loss or gain.
But R-value alone is insufficient for evaluating a wall's performance.
All the insulation in the world will have little effect if it is installed in such a manner that air can leak through. Even
in an otherwise well insulated buildings, many small leaks can allow large
volumes of air to infiltrate the structure. Wind increases infiltration
rates as well as convective heat loss (wind chill effect).
Moisture condensation is another area of concern with fibrous insulations.
In the past few years there has been growing concern about the effects water
vapor has on wall systems in tightly constructed buildings.
The theoretical basis for this concern is as follows: vaporized water generated
by daily living activities penetrates the interior sheathing (usually drywall)
and enters the wall cavity. As the vapor contacts the cold outside wall,
it can condense into actual water droplets which create the potential for
mold or mildew, blistering paint, degraded insulation and even structural
damage due to rotten studs.
The degree to which these concerns are realized depends upon the tightness
of the structure. Moisture condensation in older, more loosely built structures
has not been a large concern because water vapor could readily escape along
with the heated air. In a tighter, energy conscious building those escape
routes are more likely to be blocked, creating the potential for problems.
Weather or not there is damage to structural materials depends upon their
composition, but there is another potential problem. The condensed water
can saturate the insulating material, thereby increasing the conductivity
(reducing its R-value) and causing considerable heat loss. Even relatively
small amounts of moisture in fiberglass and cellulose insulations are known
to significantly reduce their insulation capabilities.
In an attempt to prevent this, vapor barriers are installed. These barriers
can be created with many different materials, so long as they restrict (though
not eliminate) the water vapor that passes through.
So, in order to evaluate the insulating performance of a given wall system,
it is important to consider the tightness of construction, the R-value of
the materials, the quality of the installation, and the wall's susceptibility
to moisture condensation.
How do foam core panels help these problems?
First, MEPS has an R-value of 4.35 per inch of thickness at 25°F.
The typical panel we use has 5-5/8 inches of foam in its core (R-26);
this is the composite panel calculated R-value at 25° F.
Second, the panels are manufactured in large sheets (4'X8' up to 8'X24')
consisting mostly of insulation. The seams are sealed, creating continuous
blanket insulation uninterrupted by structural framing members (as opposed
to a conventional stud wall with a break in the insulation ever 16 inches
to accommodate framing lumber).
Removing the framing lumber from the insulation allows full utilization
of the MEPS. Remember, wood is relatively poor insulator (R-1 per inch
of thickness), and in a wall with studs every 16 inches, wood can account
for up to 30 percent of a wall's volume, significantly reducing the
overall performance of the wall. The stated R-value of an
panel is a true reflection of its ability to resist conductive heat
loss.
Third, in panels the continuous mass of high density foam
nearly eliminates the air movement within the wall and the heat loss
caused by convective looping of air within the insulation. Compare the
continuous mass of MEPS to a low density insulator such as fiberglass.
Fiberglass is the material used to make filters for face masks, furnaces
and cigarettes because it allows air to pass through.
Fourth, MEPS foam is only marginally affected by moisture condensation.
In one test, MEPS was force saturated to ten times its normal dry weight
and still retained 80% of its insulating value. In addition, MEPS insulation
is inert, organic material. It provides no food value to plants, animals
and microorganisms. It will not rot and it is highly resistant to mildew.
I am building in a wooded area. Could I have a problem with carpenter ants?
Possibly, if you build your nest in ant territory
they might build their nests in yours. Unlike termites, carpenter ants
do not eat wood, they just burrow in it, and the softer the wood, the
easier the work. That's why they like moist, rotting limbs and stumps.
Given the opportunity, carpenter ants may also tunnel into the foam insulation
in wall and roof panels as they will in fiberglass and cellulose insulations.
The resulting damage is often negligible, but left unchecked, these ants
can dig out enough insulation to reduce the thermal effectiveness of the
panel and conceivably affect its structural performance.
Preventing carpenter ant infestation in any structure is easier than curing
it and prevention is most easily done during construction. Use pressure
treated lumber for the sill and other areas subject to dampness. Leave
a 2-foot buffer zone between the house and surrounding vegetation, and
protect against "aerial attack" by trimming back any overhanging
tree limbs. Seal and periodically check all potential entry points. Clear
away any natural nesting materials such as dead trees and downed limbs,
and store firewood well away from the house.
In areas that are particularly prone to ant problems such as heavily wooded
areas or low shaded areas where the ground stays damp, consider treating
the foundation with a long-acting pesticide prior to backfilling and install
termite shield under the sill. Consult a local treatment expert for further
recommendations on long term control methods for your area.
Be equally inhospitable inside the house. Ants don't eat wood or insulation;
they eat things like food scraps, garbage and insects, and will be much
less attracted to a clean house.
Control indoor humidity with an active ventilation system. Excessive humidity
causes condensation which can soon result in moist, rotting wood - just
what ants like.
Will MEPS give off toxic gases in my home?
No. MEPS begin as tiny styrene beads that are
impregnated with liquid pentane- a colorless hydrocarbon which does not
cause any health problems except at high levels of concentration.
When heat and steam are applied to the beads, the pentane causes them
to expand to more than 30 times their original size (when the plastic
is in its bead form, pentane accounts for about 6 percent of the material
by weight). During the expansion process, this drops to about 3 percent,
and within 6 weeks to 2 months after cutting pentane content declines
to less than one-quarter of one percent. By the time of occupancy, the
pentane content is negligible. MEPS contain no formaldehyde.
Is EPS a fire hazard?
We use "Modified EPS" which contains
flame retardant additives that improve its burning characteristics compared
to the EPS variety we are so familiar with in our disposable cups and
packaging materials. EPS products will progressively distort, soften and
melt when exposed to temperatures in excess of 175°F. As exposure
temperatures continue to increase, combustible gases given off by molten
residue will ignite in the presence of an ignition source. This temperature
level, referred to as the flash ignition point, is approximately 700°F
for modified EPS. This value may be directly compared to flash ignition
temperatures for white pine and Douglas fir of 500° F.
Unlike wood, however, MEPS makes a very small fuel contribution because
it contains only about 3% combustion material by volume.
In addition, most building codes require interior wall and ceiling surfaces
covering foam insulations to provide a 15-minute rated fire barrier.
panels meet this requirement with the installation of drywall on interior
surfaces.
Do SIP homes require special foundations?
NO. They can be built on block, poured, slab, pier or treated wood foundations.
What about interior walls?
Interior walls are built using studs in the conventional manner.
How are windows and doors installed in foam core panels?
Windows and door openings can be cut during installation
of panels. Rough framing is installed after moving 1-1/2" of foam
around the perimeter of the opening. The window or door unit is then shimmed
in place and secured according to the manufacturer's instructions. The
gaps between the rough opening and the window frame are foamed to eliminate
air leakage. An even more efficient method is to have the panels pre-cut
for window and door openings and gable, rake and other cuts. This significantly
reduces site time and labor and gets the structure out of the weather
more quickly.
What kind of siding can be used?
Any type of conventional siding can be used. The
OSB laminated to the panel provides a sound nailing base for attaching
siding. With the addition of a brick ledge to the foundation, brick and
stone can also be used.
What kind of roofing can I use?
SIP homes require no special roofing materials.
Fiberglass, asphalt, wood and metal are all suitable, but check the manufacturer's
warranty before you buy fiberglass or asphalt shingles. Some shingle manufacturers
have been hesitant about warranting their product when applied to un-vented
roof systems, claiming that un-vented roofs could produce high shingle
temperatures and thereby reducing shingle life. However, recent studies
at the University of Illinois and the Florida Solar Energy Center concluded
that roof ventilation has little or no effect on shingle or sheathing
temperature (Energy Design Update, Nov. 1990). This has not produced an
overnight change in all shingle makers' warranties, but shop around. There
are several shingle manufacturers that offer full warranties on both vented
and un-vented roofs.
Asphalt shingles must meet ASTM D3462, the Specification for Asphalt Shingles
Made fro Glass Felt and Surfaced with Mineral Granules. Or ASTM D225,
the Specification for Asphalt Shingles (Organic Felt) Surfaced with Mineral
Granules. Asphalt Saturated Felt Paper must meet ASTM D226.
How does one install electrical wire in foam core panels?
Wiring a foam core wall is not difficult but does
require planning. Much of the wiring will be run in the conventionally
framed interior walls, but there will certainly be some wiring in the
panelized exterior walls. Our wall panels are manufactured with a wire
chase as specified height above the sub floor (usually 14"). Wire
chases can also be located a counter height for kitchen outlets. The wire
can be accessed by cutting outlet openings just above the chase. Vertical
chases can be provided, but are often not needed because the wire can
be run along a door opening or through interior wall framing.
What about plumbing?
Plumbing is not normally run through foam core
panels. The panels are used for exterior walls, and as in consistent with
good building practice, plumbing should be kept out of exterior walls
to avoid freezing.
What kind of heating system can I use?
SIP homes require no special heating system. Forced
air, electric, solar, radiant and wood burning systems are all suitable,
though some are more appropriate than others for a specific home design.
Keep in mind that central air conditioning requires ductwork and is therefore
most compatible with forced-air heating systems. Because of the home's
tight construction, the fireplaces, wood burners, furnaces and any other
combustion appliances should be supplied with an outside source of combustion
air. No matter what type of system you choose, the home's inherent energy
efficiency means you won't need as big a unit as you would with a typical
conventionally framed building of equal size.
Do I need to make special provisions for ventilation?
Yes. A properly constructed SIP home has a very
low air infiltration rate. That's great for reducing heating and cooling
costs, but it isn't always healthy for the home or its occupants. We strongly
recommend that a whole-house ventilating system be installed at the time
of construction, and certainly before the first heating season. New homes
are filled with new materials and many of those new materials - whether
construction products, furnishings or finishes - will out gas various
pollutants. Emissions will decrease with time - many products are stabilized
within 6 months of manufacture - but extra ventilation may be needed in
the meantime.
The substance that is released in the greatest quantity is water, especially
from masonry and the lumber. The materials in the average home contain
thousands of gallons of water, which must eventually be removed from the
house. The first heating season is typically when the greatest amount
of moisture is driven from the house. The first heating season begins
as soon as the house is closed to the winter during construction. One
telltale sign of lack of adequate ventilation can show up in the form
of heavy condensation on windows, or in the ridging of asphalt shingles
or in telltale frost or ice at leakage points. Left unchecked, this moisture
can produce mold or mildew and can eventually cause serious damage to
your home and its contents.
Ventilation is important even after the home and its contents have stabilized.
Significant "indoor pollution" is produced by everyday activities
such as cooking, cleaning, bathing and even breathing. It is wise to monitor
indoor humidity levels for they are a general indicator of indoor air
quality. Most building scientists today recommend that interior humidity
levels be maintained at a range of 30% to 50% to minimize health and structural
problems.
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